In Reply to: More Bunko posted by Joe Dressner on September 28, 2000 at 12:32:43:
You just conjectured that the problem with Derain's whites (and let's not overstate the problem - we both very much like the whites) was the barrels. It's not. That much is clear. It may be topping up. I've personally seen less than scrupulously refilled barrels there. (He has specifically mentioned using as little SO2 as he can, as well. I didn't say he used none. He may not use it to the best advantage.) Putting that together with the occasional oxidative result, I get the answer that the oxidation has something to do with topping up - and that's a normal source for the issue. I prefer not to think it's a question with no answer. Too metaphysically disturbing.If he's getting oxidation in tank, that not only kills your own position, it calls into question much of enology as we know it.
The Valette VV was muddled compared with the neat and easy JV, but it wasn't vegetal at all. Maybe you had just had one of the sandwiches? Perhaps the second bottle was considerably different?
On Picq, the first three wines were all lovely. The Vosgros was a little forced.
Legros's '97 Noirots is one I've always liked in the past, but it didn't show well yesterday. IMO. The Chambolle AC didn't do much for me either, but I guess I said that. I would have agreed with you about the '98s on first taste, but after circling the whole joint, I came back and tasted again and they were looking better. They'll be fine with a little time. The Vougeot in particular. I usually prefer the Perrières to the Vougeot, but not yesterday.
On Rebourseau, I'm afraid you're wrong. The Clos Vougeot was markedly different from the other two. Of course, it's still not good, and it's preposterously overpriced.
The Brenot was actually the incompetent wine. Stupid winemaking. Hard to say about "material", because the winemaking was so bad.
The Cordiers were simple and industrial.
I did like the Jouards (particularly the Clos des Truffières), the white Pavelot (what in blazes are you talking about? Maybe you had just had a sandwich?), and the woody Pernot as well as the unwoody one. I thought the the Dupont-Fahn wine stank. I thought the Allaines things were stripped and soulless and overwooded.
Speaking of overwooded, you don't think wines that have structural problems to start with don't taste worse in new wood than sound wines do? I happen to think some wines taste good in new wood, and that new wood can be used well, espeically if the wood is good. The wines I like are usually wines for keeping - so the damned new-wood taste goes away - but certainly they're good wines and they use the wood well. To me there's an enormous difference between something like Rebourseau Mazy-Chambertin '98 in new wood and - I don't know - something GOOD in new wood.
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