Welcome! Need support, you got it. Or share you ideas and experiences.
In Reply to: Re: homemade outboard posted by machnumber2 on March 23, 2003 at 22:56:37:
One must work at ones own pace, so dont feel preusured to complete on my or anyone elses account ;p
Personaly, I would use a hacksaw to cut the bolts down to size, then a fine tooth file to smooth it all up pretty like. You can also taper the end of the bolt a little wile cleaning it up with the file, wont hurt anything, and is easy with a large margin for error.
About the flat nut on the round ABS thing. It shouldnt look too bad, I think you will have to resort to RTV silicone or something similure for a seal. If you are really concerned with a flush meeting of nut to abs there you can always cut yourself some custom spacers flat on top for the nut, and slightly curved on bottom for the ABS out of wood or some other available materiel.
On to the taping of the shaft.. Small typo here, that should be TAP not tape hehehe.. I am not sure of the diamerters you are dealing with. But what I was trying to say was If the shaft is suficiently larger then the hole on your prop. You might be able to drill the shaft and tap it out to recieve your bolt through the prop into the shaft. One drawback to using this method, You will not be able to lock the bolt in place, you will be relying solely on 1 bolt without a cotter pin. a locking washer or 2 might help.. it is possible to drill through the shaft & bolt and put a cotter pin in behind the prop but still through the shaft and bolt if this method is employed, But this is not a recomended way, Just an alternate way. Something that would work if it had too. ( if the shaft is big enough. In my experience, as long as you have 1/16th of a inch sidewall after taping, you will be alright, if it is less, the sidewall might giveway under load ). Personly I think reducing the shaft diamerter and using s dye on it is the best method, it allows for you to be able to lock the prop on with a pin. Hmmmm... It occures to me here that you can always tap the hole smaller then the prop hole if need be, and use spacers on the bolt build it up to the prop hole thickness. but as stated, this is not the best way, Just A way. If I have failed to decribe this good enough I can knock you a picture together
I was just sitting here thinking I feel just like my old shop teacher here, He used to present several ways to do something but let us decide which was to be used.
Sidenote here. buddy of mine, also adept in making adatchments. ( no typo there) an Adatchment is a term we coined a few years ago wile creating animitronics for a haunted house. An Adatchment is a part, usualy an handmade custom adapter that connects 2 or more things that dont go together, In order to make them do what You want them too, reguardless of what the parts were originaly designed for.
Anyway, after discusing this prodject with him a few different times as we have progressed here, He is now looking at making a Jet water drive for his rubber raft. That should be a challenge. weight is a real issue in a rubber raft. Im thinking weed eater here as a powerplant, but I am still undecided. Either that or a chain saw. but thats another story. If he persues it this summer Ill start a new thread for its discusion.
Finally got some time to spend on the project but accomplished little other than learning some stuff. After I put the bearing bolts in place with the longer bolts(got to warn you, not a pretty site hehe), the lower T and pipe houseing would not align properly (probably because I did not drill the holes properly alinged-its harder than it looks). Finally I took out my rotozip cutting cool and cut out some of the upper portion of the pipe and an access hole in the lower portion of the T to allow the lower shaft assembly more room to move. The assembly alinged barely ok after that, not nearly as clean as I hoped it would be. I assembled the outboard and started it up and it ran ok without too much belt interference or vibration. But I am overall disapointed with it, its just not as clean and simple as I wanted, I am having to "Macyver" everything now and it is making the project too custom and complicated. My goal was a simple assemly that could be easily replicated again. Starting to lean towards your plywood/figergalss idea but not quite ready to abandon this idea yet. Anyways.. Will have to patch that bottom access hole and upper cut, I think fiberglass might work for that, where do you get that stuff by the way? I have never worked with fiberglass but know of it and the way I envision it is that you lay some type of fabric then paint the fiberglass glue on top? Lol on the adatchments, that is a perfect term for what is gong on here.
I hope that your friend goes ahead with his project and cant wait to see the photos and progress. Update photos below.
hehe yeah your end product is starting to look a little Uhh,, Rough. Pretty standart for a prototype. hehehe
fibergalss can be purchased at any mareine supply store, Walmart, and your better hardware stores. at least around here. Auto parts stores like napa also carry it.Make sure you get resin,hardener and mesh cloth. DO NOT buy tigerhair fiberglass for this.
Here is a quick fiberglssing lesson, at least,, this is how I do it, and My glass jobs have never failed.
A- clean area to be glassed.
B-rough up the area to be glassed with a med to course sandpaper.
C- Lay a clean empty 2 litre plastic bottle on its side and cut a large Oval hole in to serve as a disposable mixing containter.
D- Wear rubber gloves
E Cut your mesh at least 2 inches wider and longer then you need to cover the area.
F-mix resin and hardener in the cut open bottle, drop the cloth in and stire and kneed it til it is fully saturated. ( be fast, speed counts )
G- wrap soaked mesh around the pipe and smooth out as best you can. Speed is more important than neetness. You can always sand for neatness. Try to work neat, but speed is really the key.
H - Let dry a few hours then sand.
Some notes here. Once the mesh is laid, do not peel it back up. You can slide it a little but its best to place it where you need it first shot. It would probably be a good idea to put the piece you cut away back in place before fiberglassing. how much hardener you use determines how fast it will set. too much it will set super fast, Too little and it wont set at all. it is better too use a little more then not enough if unsure when mixing. for your aplication 1 layer should be enough, 2 would be better, 3 should be stronger then the pipe itself. I think after you use fiberglass once, it will become part of your standart bag of construction tricks.
One other note about working with fiberglass, it will produce a certain amount of heat due to the cemical reaction to the hardener. this is normal, and sometimes feels very warm, but not enough to burn you.
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: