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On Tuesday the 1st of May our club had a tasting some 1998 red burgundies. The results from this tasting just reconfirm to me how wrong Rovani got it in his review of the 1998s.Nicholas Potel Volnay 1er Santenots:
This wine showed very little fruit and slightly stalky but for all that wasn't unpleasant. Following subsequent discussions as outlined in Potel 1998s and Cork problems posted earlier, I think that this wine may may but "flattened" but not obviously tainted by the dreaded TCA.Roblet-Monnot Volnay ler les Ormeaux:
Unusually for Pascal Roblet's wines this was already very approachable with lovely sweet ripe pinot fruit which was in excellent balance with it's structure. Not profound but very attractive.Guillon Gevrey-Ch 1er Champonnets: I had never come across this proprietor before. Anyone out there can fill me in? Based on this wine I don't think I will be chasing too hard. Wine smelt slightly "confectionery" on bouquet and the palate was only of medium concentration and lack complexity. Pleasant drink but not a standard setter for sure.
Frederic Esmonin Clos de Beze:
A big step up on previous wine. Medium deep red colour. Sweet pinot fruit with just a pinch of oak on nose. Lovely pinot palate of medium depth and length. A really lovely drink for medium term. OK it is not riveting GC drinking but this wine is cheaper than many domaines 1er crus and in that context can be thoroughly recommended. One can decry the lost opportunity to better utilise the vineyard.Fourrier Gevrey 1er Combe aux Moines:
Gee I like Jean-Marie's style of winemaking. The wine just reeks quality, purity of fruit and precise reflection of terroir. Some would like to see a bit more extraction in his wines but I find that the wines develop more than adequate depth in bottle and the aromatics are superb. Lovers of blockbusters please stay away as these will not be your cuppa tea.Roumier M-S-D 1er Clos de la Buissiere:
Typical Roumier style M-S-D, firm, brooding and brawny. When this sheds its youthful ruggedness I think consumers will be richly rewarded. Even with this wine the tannins were more than adequately balance by the depth of fruit.Herve Sigaut M-S-D Charrieres:
To begin this wine showed good depth of colour and fruit with good palate length.
With time in the glass I found that some slightly angular tannins started to raise their heads. Maybe better to drink younger on the primary fruit???H.Lignier M-S-D 1er les Chaffots:
Excellent depth of colour. Very sweet fruit and lots of ( for my taste too much)charred new oak characteristics. This "imbalance" carried through on to the palate. I love the Lignier wines in general but at least presently this wine is not what I await from them. This is all about modern technique not pure expression of terroir. If you like oaky rich pinot you will probably find this a very enjoyable drink.Desaunay-Bissey Vosne-R-1erBeaumonts:
Deep red colour. Brooding blackfruits bouquet with just a hint of oak. Not currently as expressive as the earlier wines but leaves one excited at hte potential. The palate again was tight but again was very impressive by its depth, length and balance. Brooding power but without any harshness. This is put away for 8 years + stuff. I picked this as a Grand cru.Robert Sirigue Vosne-R 1er Petits Monts:
Another intense powerful representation of Vosne. Again very good length and intensity but not the class of the Desaunay-Bissey and with time in the glass I found the wood treatment to not be all that noble.Robert Arnoux Vosne-R Hautes Maizieres:
The dreaded TCA strikes again, this time in a big way, unassessable.All in all a very enjoyable group of wines which reenforce my view that 1998 has produced many very attractive wines for the medium term.
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