Wine Asylum

TN: 1996 Dom. Closel Savennieres, Clos du Papillon Cuvee Speciale

199.174.243.13

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This wine cost me $18 a bottle, which included the packing and shipping to my door. Purchased from Garnet Wines in New York on release. 14% alcohol. 100% chenin blanc. I'm sorry, but that is where the facts end and the opinion begins.

Last year I had a chance to taste a 1945 Latour. There are two parallels:
1) words have not been created to describe the sensory experience that I enjoyed when smelling and tasting that 55 year old cabernet. Likewise, this wine's aromatics and flavor profile transcend vocabulary. Ah well, we try (below).
2) When I had finished my last sip of the Latour, I noticed that the smell of the wine in the glass intensified for several minutes. That had never occured to me before. In this case, the finish intensified as soon as I had swallowed, such that, several moments later, the intensity of the flavors on the palate was greater than when the wine was held in the mouth. Remarkable!
This is a perfectly balanced wine with immense aromatics that remind me of lemon rind, rain water, flint, distant smoke a on wet day and clean air and, added to that, are all sorts of little nuances like camomille tea and freshly chopped herbs - a really lovely and very integrated nose that is both powerful and beguiling. Taste follows the nose with a depth and layered complexity that seems to rise and fall in the mouth but never leave the confines of its medium bodied, smoothly textured delivery. A delineated but integrated wine - like any great wine, the words seem contradictory. An endless finish
which, as mentioned, seems to get stronger. I have never had a wine with a longer or more enticing finish. Its acid structure is bright and alive and its depth of fruit is concentrated and lasting - this should do well with many years in your cellar. But it is stunning now.
My only regret is that I bought only one case of this wine.
If you find it, buy it - if you don't like it, call me - I will buy every bottle.
Truly classic.
Best, Jim


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