 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
Call me cheap. I've always used a simple manual flash set-up with my Canon. It is cheaper, and a manual does not hinder me with what I enjoy shooting. Plus, I actually enjoy doing the computations myself rather than having the quench tube do it for me. Now to the hard part. At the thrift store I found an old Albinar Model 91 CAN-IR for 3 bucks. My first reaction was cover up the "eye" to make another manual unit! After taking it home, it occured to me what the CAN in the model stood for! Duh! Does anyone here know how this particular dedicated flash works? The Light sensor in the front has different diameter holes that you align by the film ASA rating. I think I could use this feature to 1/2,1/4,1/8 etc. the amount of light compared to another flash. Is that correct? There is a switch on the back for "Automatic" or "Programed". The "Auto" I think I understand, that is, the flash "says" to you, "Because you told me that you are using ASA 200 film, when you shoot a picture 25 feet or closer I'm telling you to put the f-stop ring to f4. "I will then put an exact f4's amount of light out there and you will get a good exposure, no matter what".(numbers made up!) Is that a correct assumption?? The "Programed" is a mystery to me. Any help there? Also on the back there is a multi position switch marked with f-stops from 2 to 22. Will this change the light output? Or more simply, what does that do? Another thing on the back. There are a series of l.e.d.'s under a frosted glass that are also referenced to f-stops from 2 to 22. They come on for a few seconds after the flash fires when the flash is set to "Programed", indicating-----what? My Canon has three contacts in the hot shoe. This Albinar also has the same three contacts. When I put the flash in the hot shoe, select "Programed", and then half-way press the shutter button, a separate flash tube apart from the main tube fires under a red colored window in the front. I suppose this refers to the "IR" in the part number. Any ideas on this? Is this red-eye reduction or exposure calculations to take place in the flash?
I guess it's time for me to get out of the Dark Ages with regards to flash units. Please do excuse my ignorance in this area of photography. Any info you care to pass along will help. Thank you in advance for your time and effort.
Follow Ups:
Cheapskate, here some comments. Though I always keep in my head a balance between the methods and the purpose…let assume that you are taking about a “serious shooting” but not about the weekend entertaining.
*** I've always used a simple manual flash set-up with my Canon.
There is nothing wrong with it. In many instances it is very advisable to use even very sophisticated flash system in manual mode. However if you know how those automated systems work and know how they fail then you can introduce the correction in the automatic mode and get the same predictable result. In many cases (and I personally tend to do it) it is more beneficial to override the automated modes then do the manual mode “from scratch”. This is very hard to explain why but when you learn to use the automatic modes as “a tool” but not as “a solution” then you “productively” in automated modes will go over the roof.
***My first reaction was cover up the "eye" to make another manual unit!
It is highly not advisable. Those “armature flashes” are not designed to work in “full mode”. Their PS converter (which swing 6-9V to 300V), their tube durability, the way how tube despite hit, very long burning time (some of them up to 1/200c) are not promise it as a reliable and useful flash. Yes you can’t bit $3 but what would you do with burned tube in your boat 500 miles form any repair shop? Isn’t is the wonderful way to screw up own vacation?
*** The "Programed" is a mystery to me. Any help there?
Very generally the program mode will light your flash up and will keep it up until the light reflected form the object would match the reference point built up inside you flash and moderated buy the “working” stop. Yep, it is very simple but this is a lot of room to go further. It works differently with dark and light objects, it reacts differently to the ambiance light, it works differently with the lenses of the different focus… and many-many others “problems”. An experience shooter could predict and make the necessary correction to get the correct decently and contrast. I many instances in order to do it you have to take under consideration the common algorithms used by those printing machines to supply force them to make the “desirable errors” (in case of negative) or to reach the desirable light effect (in case of reversal film). I have to note that some contemporary flashes are extremely smart and all this “wisdom” is have taken care. In 99% of the regular shooting those flashes over-perform my “all can handle pomposity”. I sincerely suggest you to look and this direction and to drink that coffee while you drive to you office instead of switching the gears. Remember for you it is not a performance car but a vehicle to drive you to your work. By the way I have to note that in prehistoric times one of the “experimental” Minoltas had a design when the distance from lens was red and submitted into the flash. Only God in his infinite wisdom know why this method was not accepted and the only method. In contemporary autofocus cameras it is extremely simple but for some idiotic reasons the contemporary flashes still use the reflection from the subject.
*** Also on the back there is a multi position switch marked with f-stops from 2 to 22. Will this change the light output? Or more simply, what does that do?
I do not know this particular flash. It mist be the divider for manual mode that will change the light output or a changer of your working stop. Most probably it is the second (because the divider usually marked as ½. ¼ and so on…) When you set a selected stop then our flash will cover the distance up to Guide_No/Stop.
*** Another thing on the back. There are a series of l.e.d.'s under a frosted glass that are also referenced to f-stops from 2 to 22. They come on for a few seconds after the flash fires when the flash is set to "Programed", indicating-----what?
This indication that the subject was “exposed properly” or that the flash did not reach the “full” mode. Subjectively it may indicate for you that the subject was not too far for the power of this flash.
*** Thank you in advance for your time and effort.
Actually if you desperately look forward to make this flash to work for you that I would suggest you to shoot and analyze the density of your film. After 2-3 rolls but correlating the memory about the light condition and the subject you will get some feeling. Also if you really would like to ask some questions from people who care and will be able to help they find some truly photographic community. This forum has a little relation to photography and is just an escape for the audio loosers.
Cheapskate, here some comments. Though I always keep in my head a balance between the methods and the purpose…let assume that you are taking about a “serious shooting” but not about the weekend entertaining.
*** I've always used a simple manual flash set-up with my Canon.
There is nothing wrong with it. In many instances it is very advisable to use even very sophisticated flash system in manual mode. However if you know how those automated systems work and know how they fail then you can introduce the correction in the automatic mode and get the same predictable result. In many cases (and I personally tend to do it) it is more beneficial to override the automated modes then do the manual mode “from scratch”. This is very hard to explain why but when you learn to use the automatic modes as “a tool” but not as “a solution” then you “productively” in automated modes will go over the roof.
***My first reaction was cover up the "eye" to make another manual unit!
It is highly not advisable. Those “armature flashes” are not designed to work in “full mode”. Their PS converter (which swing 6-9V to 300V), their tube durability, the way how tube despite hit, very long burning time (some of them up to 1/200c) are not promise it as a reliable and useful flash. Yes you can’t bit $3 but what would you do with burned tube in your boat 500 miles form any repair shop? Isn’t is the wonderful way to screw up own vacation?
*** The "Programed" is a mystery to me. Any help there?
Very generally the program mode will light your flash up and will keep it up until the light reflected form the object would match the reference point built up inside you flash and moderated buy the “working” stop. Yep, it is very simple but this is a lot of room to go further. It works differently with dark and light objects, it reacts differently to the ambiance light, it works differently with the lenses of the different focus… and many-many others “problems”. An experience shooter could predict and make the necessary correction to get the correct decently and contrast. I many instances in order to do it you have to take under consideration the common algorithms used by those printing machines to supply force them to make the “desirable errors” (in case of negative) or to reach the desirable light effect (in case of reversal film). I have to note that some contemporary flashes are extremely smart and all this “wisdom” is have taken care. In 99% of the regular shooting those flashes over-perform my “all can handle pomposity”. I sincerely suggest you to look and this direction and to drink that coffee while you drive to you office instead of switching the gears. Remember for you it is not a performance car but a vehicle to drive you to your work. By the way I have to note that in prehistoric times one of the “experimental” Minoltas had a design when the distance from lens was red and submitted into the flash. Only God in his infinite wisdom know why this method was not accepted and the only method. In contemporary autofocus cameras it is extremely simple but for some idiotic reasons the contemporary flashes still use the reflection from the subject.
*** Also on the back there is a multi position switch marked with f-stops from 2 to 22. Will this change the light output? Or more simply, what does that do?
I do not know this particular flash. It mist be the divider for manual mode that will change the light output or a changer of your working stop. Most probably it is the second (because the divider usually marked as ½. ¼ and so on…) When you set a selected stop then our flash will cover the distance up to Guide_No/Stop.
*** Another thing on the back. There are a series of l.e.d.'s under a frosted glass that are also referenced to f-stops from 2 to 22. They come on for a few seconds after the flash fires when the flash is set to "Programed", indicating-----what?
This indication that the subject was “exposed properly” or that the flash did not reach the “full” mode. Subjectively it may indicate for you that the subject was not too far for the power of this flash.
*** Thank you in advance for your time and effort.
Actually if you desperately look forward to make this flash to work for you that I would suggest you to shoot and analyze the density of your film. After 2-3 rolls but correlating the memory about the light condition and the subject you will get some feeling. Also if you really would like to ask some questions from people who care and will be able to help they find some truly photographic community. This forum has a little relation to photography and I just an escape for the audio looserRegards,
Romy The Cat
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2024, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
